Cappadocia — a region of central Anatolia, approximately 300km south-east of Ankara, where millions of years of volcanic eruption deposited deep layers of tuff (compressed volcanic ash) that subsequent erosion by wind and water has carved into an extraordinary landscape of conical rock formations (the famous "fairy chimneys" — tall, slender pillars of tuff topped by harder basalt caps that protected the softer rock beneath from erosion), deep valleys, cave churches and underground cities — is one of the most immediately recognisable and most visually extraordinary landscapes in the world. The UNESCO World Heritage Site designation (1985) covers the Göreme National Park and the "Rock Sites of Cappadocia", including the cave churches with their extraordinary 10th–13th century Byzantine fresco cycles (preserving a tradition of Christian religious art that was suppressed in Constantinople during the Iconoclast period but flourished in these remote Anatolian valleys), the underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı (which housed up to 20,000 people each during the Arab raids of the 7th–10th centuries CE), and the landscape itself.
The hot air balloon flight at dawn — when up to 100 balloons rise simultaneously from the Göreme valley, the fairy chimney landscape below lit by the first horizontal light of the sun — is one of the most spectacular human experiences in the world and the primary reason most visitors come to Cappadocia: a 1-hour flight at various altitudes above the Rose Valley, Love Valley and Göreme landscape, landing to a champagne breakfast, is the most memorable morning possible in Turkey. Flights operate year-round (weather permitting — strong winds cancel flights; summer is most reliable) and book out months ahead in high season (June–August): reserve through a reputable operator (Royal Balloon or Butterfly Balloons are the most respected) at least 3 months ahead for summer visits.
Göreme Open-Air Museum & Cave Churches
The Göreme Open-Air Museum — 1km from Göreme village, a complex of 30 Byzantine rock-cut churches, chapels and monasteries (most dating from the 10th–13th centuries, built by the Christian monastic community that thrived here under Byzantine rule) — is the finest single archaeological and art-historical site in Cappadocia: the Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise, additional entry €5 on top of museum admission, the most important, its 11th-century frescoes of the Life of Christ in extraordinary preservation because the low-light conditions prevented pigment decay), the Apple Church, the Snake Church and the Chapel of St Barbara are all remarkable. Museum admission approximately €15 (check current prices); the Buckle Church requires a separate ticket. The caves and rock formations of the Rose Valley (accessible on foot from Göreme or by horse) and Love Valley (Devrent Valley, best at sunset when the fairy chimneys cast long shadows) are free to explore independently.
Underground Cities & Rock Valleys
Derinkuyu — the largest of Cappadocia's underground cities, 30km south of Göreme, accessible by car or organised tour — descends 85 metres through 11 excavated levels, with living quarters, stables, churches, wine cellars, food stores and ventilation shafts for a community of up to 20,000 people who took refuge underground during the Arab raids of the 7th–10th centuries CE. The tunnels are narrow (most sections require bending) and the experience can be claustrophobic; the overall impression is of extraordinary human ingenuity and endurance. Kaymaklı (15km south of Nevşehir) is smaller but less crowded and has a better interpretive display. The Ihlara Valley (50km south-west of Göreme) — a 14km canyon of the Melendiz River with 100 rock-cut churches containing some of Cappadocia's finest frescoes — is the finest half-day excursion from the region and consistently less visited than the Göreme sites. The walk through the canyon (approximately 4 hours for the full length) is one of the finest valley walks in Turkey.
Cave Hotels & Getting There
Staying in a cave hotel in Cappadocia is one of the finest travel experiences in Turkey: the cave rooms (carved directly into the volcanic tuff, with constant year-round temperatures of 15–18°C regardless of outdoor conditions) range from basic but characterful (in the village of Göreme, from approximately £40/night) to extraordinary luxury (Argos in Cappadocia, Museum Hotel, Kelebek — suites from £200–500/night with private terraces overlooking the fairy chimneys, rooftop pools and the finest Turkish breakfast spreads in the region). Cappadocia is reached by flight from Istanbul or Ankara (1.5 hours; the nearest airports are Kayseri, 75km, and Nevşehir, 40km) or by overnight sleeper bus from Istanbul (10 hours, a classic Turkish travel experience for budget-conscious visitors). Göreme is the most convenient base for the region; Ürgüp has the finest cave hotel concentration; Uçhisar (with its castle rock, the finest hilltop panorama in the region) is the most photogenic village.
